Tuesday, March 20, 2012

Temples in Bali for "Living Prayer in Hinduism"

The word of Pura (temple) comes from the Sanskrit word meaning city or fortress, a place that is made specifically with fenced wall to make contact with the sacred power. This special place is as a shrine to worship of Hyang Widi and its manifestations and the sacred ancestral spirit.

The word of temple has not been found in the days of Bali Kuna (Old Bali). It has been started since the era of King Sri Krishna Kepakisan in Gelgel (Klungkung). Previously, a place to pray in Bali (800 - 1343 AD) named to as Hyang.

In general, the shape of the temple’s building is a replica of a mountain that in the Hindu Bali is as a place where the Gods dwell.

According to Rector of the Institute of Hindu Dharma Negeri (IHDN) Denpasar, Prof. Dr. I Made Titib, currently there are recorded more than 20 thousand units of temples in Bali. (Reuters, January 6, 2012). They are divided into:

a. Public Temple
This temple has the general characteristics as a place of worship Hyang Widi with all its manifestations. These temples are generally classified as Hindus worshiped by all, so often called Kahyangan Jagat.

Temple of Kahyangan Jagat is devided by four groups which are:
 It has been built based on Rwa Bhineda concept
 It has been built based on Catur Loka Pala concept
 It has been built based on Sad Winayaka concept
 It has been built based on Padma Bhuwana concept

There are a few temples that are categorized as dual function, both as Rwa Bhineda temple, Catur Loka Pala temple as well as Sad Winayaka temple and also as the Padma Bhuwana temple.

Pura Besakih and Pura Batur at Kintamani are the Rwa Bhineda temple.

Pura Catur Loka Pala are:
Pura Lempuhyang Luhur (East); Pura Luhur Batukaru (West), Pura Andakasa (South) and Pura Puncak Mangu (North).

The temple that has been build based on Sad Winayaka concept generally called Pura Sad Kahyangan. No less than nine lontars (literary) was saying about it. But every lontar said different temples. This is happen when Bali was divided by nine Kingdoms. Every Kingdom has Sad Kahyangan themselves. There were the same and there were different.

Other temples, which are grouping as a general temples are the temple that functioned as a place to worship of sacred teacher or Dang Guru. This temple is revered by all Hindus who feel indebted to the services of Dang Guru on the basis of Hindu religious teachings that have been granted. Pretend to belong to a character called Dang Kahyangan like: Pura Purancak, Pura Rambutsiwi, Pura Pulaki, Pura Batu Ponjok, Pura Silayukti, Pura Kentelgumi and others. Those are relating to the Dharma Yatra conducted by Dang Hyang Nirartha and Empu Kuturan for their role as Dang Guru.

Other temples which are also a public temples are the temples that commonly associated with temples and shrines in the kingdom that ever existed Bali like Taman Ayun temple, which is a temple to the Kingdom of Mengwi, and Pura Dasar Gelgel which is under Gelgel Kingdom and others.

b. Territorial Temple
This temple has a characteristic unity of the region as a place of worship of a traditional village. Characteristic of a traditional village basically has three temples called Kahyangan Tiga are: Pura Desa, Pura Dalem and Pura Puseh. The name of Kahyangan Tiga seems to also vary as to some villages in Bali, Pura Desa often called Pura Bale Agung, Puseh often called Pura Segara, even the Pura Puseh of Besakih village is been called Pura Banua.

Etymologically, Kahyangan Tiga has two words which are kahyangan and tiga. Kayhangan came from a word of hyang which means holly, and tiga means three. The meaning of them is three holly places, which are Pura Desa also called Pura Bale Agung, Pura Puseh and the third is Pura Dalem.

There is Kahyangan Tiga at every village in Bali. If there are 1456 villages in Bali, means there are 4368 temples part of Kahyangan Tiga. In some villages, sometimes the place of Pura Puseh is in Pura Desa, therefore its look like only one Pura but actually two.

c. Functional Temple.
This temple has a functional of what the follower’s job/work/profession, such as farmer, trader or fisher. As farmers, they need water to process the soil, so they have a social temple known as Pura Empelan (dam/dyke) or Pura Ulunsuwi or Pura Subak.
For traders, especially for them who are selling in a traditional market, there will be a Pura Melanting in the complex.

d. Clan’s Temple
This kind of temple has a character that is determined by the clan or the origin of ancestor based on birth line (genealogic). A main family (mother, father and children) in terms of anthropology called batih families have a place of worship called Sanggah or Pamerajan.

Then when the family had increased in number and there is someone goes out from the house of origin, therefore the place of extended family worship is called Pamerajan Agung or Sanggah Gede.

Furthermore, on a broader level, at the level of the clan have a place of worship called Dadia temple, so they are called tunggal dadia (single dadia). If the clan was enlarged again to include Jagat Bali, then they have a place of worship called Padarman, usually found in Pura Besakih, like Padarman Dalem, Padarman Arya Dauh, Padarman Arya Kepakisan and others.

The worship to Holy Spirit’s Ancestor in Bali wasn’t influenced by India, but it has existed long before the influence of Hinduism came to Indonesia. This religious conception is the original elements of Indonesia / Bali that developed from neolith ± 2500SM and continuing on the era of bronze ± 500SM. To a place of worship ancestors during this period was established by a building of pyramids terrace and menhir, while for the perpetuation of grave bodily coffin made of stone, called the sarcophagus. Archaeological evidence was found in Bali, especially in mountain villages like Selulung at Kintamani, Sembiran village, Tenganan Pagringsingan and others.


After the Hindu cultural influence Indonesia, then there was a mix of religious conceptions of the sacred ancestral spirit worship called Batara original elements of Indonesia or Bali and worship God the influence of India. Finally, the religious conception is adjacent to one another. This is clearly seen in temples in Bali where there are shrines to Hyang Widi called Padmasana.

Sites:

1. Pura Puseh Batuan
Pura Desa and Pura Puseh of Batuan is a sacred place which is owned by Villagers of Batuan, Sukawati - Gianyar. Both temples are part of the concept of "Kahyangan Tiga".

Pura Desa and Pura Puseh of Batuan were established in Çaka 944 (1020 AD). But not all of them are old buildings. There are some buildings that have undergone renovation.

Meru, bale-bale, kori agung and some statues that show how strong Balinese ornaments are influenced in this temple. There are some of bale pengiyasan and meru tumpang tiga in the main yard. There is also a building of Padmasana as a place of worship to Sang Hyang Widhi (God).

There is Wantilan Purbakala at the back of this temple where the statues are stored.

2. Pura Goa Gajah
Pura Goa Gajah is located at Bedulu Village, it’s about 26 kilometers from Denpasar. This area is easy to find as it is in a tourism route of Denpasar – Tampaksiring – Danau Batur – Kintamani. This temple is surrounded by rice paddy field within Petanu River’s canyon. There are historic sites closed by such as Yeh Pulu, Samuan Tiga, Gedung Arca, Arjuna Metapa, Kebo Edan, Pusering Jagat, Penataran Sasih, etc. Pura Goa Gajah is unknown origin with certainty until now.

The name of Goa Gajah is a blend between Pura Guwa (named by local people) and an old name which is said in inscriptions of Ergajah and Lwa Gajah that allegedly famous names by end of the tenth century until end of fourteenth century (era of Negara Kertagama).

There is an old Petirtaan (place of holy water) which is divided by three rooms at the yard. There are Fountain Sculptures at the North room and South part and an apik arca at the middle room. There is a meditation’s cave with “T” forms at it’s about 13 meters of the North of Petirtaan. The alley has a 2.75 meters width and 2 meters heights. There are 15 niches for meditation on left and right. There is Trilingga at the very east of niche and Ganeca sculpture at the very end of west.

Note:
To reach the cave, we should go down for about 74 stairs.

3. Candi Tebing Tegallinggah

There are cluster consists of several temples carved into the cliffs on both sides of the River Pekerisan. One gate of the building that has collapsed on the south side of the cliff, three forms of temple sculptures, and nine niches, each of the two on the east side and seven on the west side, and petirtaan.

The Pekerisan Rivers is divided this complex of enshrinement it’s only a few feet in front of the existing buildings. There are three phallus that presenting each three mains God of Brahma, Wisnu, and Siwa on the top of the cliff. The presence of water element is indicating the presence of water concept as one of the natural aspect of Tri Hita Karana. Another aspect of this cosmological concept is in the meditation as there are in the niches where human beings to get closer to God. This resembles the shape of the building like the other buildings located along the watershed Pekerisan, supposedly dating from the 12th century AD.

Note:
 Parking lot only fix for four cars
 Walk by about 50 meters before starting to down stairs for about 87 stairs

4. Pura Samuantiga
Pura Samuan Tiga had been built at the same century of Pura Tirta Empul, which is about the tenth century. The Construction of this temple was in order to implement the religious conception in the Bali Kuna. Bali historian R. Goris said that each kingdom should have three main temples Pura Gunung, Pura Penataran and Pura Segara. Pura Tirta Empul as the mountain temple and Pura Samuantiga as Pura Penataran located at the center of kingdom.

According to Goris, at that time there were nine sects in Bali that is Pasupata, Bhairawa, Sidhanta Shiva, Vaishnava, Bodha, Brahma, Resi, Sora and Ganapatya. Each sect adores a god or goddess they believe as God’s personification. Among these sects, Ciwa Sidhanta is the most dominant sect.

Sectarian religious life was often led to tension and conflict. To maintain the stability of his kingdom, the king Udayana and his wife Gunapriyadharmapatni held a consultation of sect’s head and led by the MPU Kuturan who came from East Java.

5. Pura Arjuna Metapa
Located at the rice paddy field complex at the south part of Pura Kebo Edan.

6. Pura Kebo Edan
This temple is situated in the village of Pejeng, only a few meters to the north of the Statue of Arjuna Metapa. Here there is a Ciwa statue in the dancing form of Bhairawa, 3.60 meters height which is a relic of the thirteenth century BC. This statue shows the guise as a dancing figure on top of dead body with ornaments of snakes and sway.

Locals call Arca Kebo Edan. Except for this statue, in the Pura Kebo Edan also had a giant statue decorated with a skull and some other statues. Some statues have been damaged. Bhairawa statue had been repaired by the Office of Archaeological Swaka Bali in 1952.

Pura Kebo Edan is one of the temples as proof that the Hindu Tantric was developed in Bali. Tantric are derived from the influence of the Kingdom of Kediri - East Java in the 13th century AD when the King Kerta Nagara reigns. King of the Hindu Tantrayana has an influence to Bali. In Bali, the king raised his deputy named Kebo Kertanegara Parud.

7. Pura Yeh Pulu – Bedulu
The Old relief of yeh pulu is located in the southeast of Bedulu village. Relief is surrounded by rice fields. It’s approximately 25 meters length and 2 meters height. This is the longest ancient reliefs in Bali. This relief extends from north to south and at the end there is a place to meditate. There is a statue of Ganesha near the end of that relief. Overall the theme of the story reliefs is depicting the atmosphere of life in the forest as well as everyday life in ancient Bali kingdom. Relief is expected to be made in the 15th century.

The name of Yeh Pulu had been taken from Yeh and Pulu. Yeh means water. Pulu means barrels to put rice in it. It isn’t clear why it’s said.

8. Pura Pusering Jagat

Pura Pusering Jagat is an important temple in Bali. It’s one of the six Pura Kahyangan Jagat that located in the middle. In Hindu cosmological, the middle is the place of the God Ciwa.

Pura Pusering Jagat is located at Pejeng Village where in the past was the central of Bali Kuna Kingdom. Most people guest that word of Pejeng came from a word of pajeng which means umbrella. The Kings of Bali Kuno was sheltering their people from this village. Though, some of people thought the word of pejeng came from word of pajang (in Jawa Kuna language) which mean ray of light. So, the ray of light is beaming from this place to the entire world.

9. Pura Goa Garba (Pura Pengukurukuran)
Pura Pengukur-ukuran is located in the Pakraman Sawagunung Village, Pejeng Kelod Village, Gianyar.
There are a relic of the Candi Agung and the ancient rites that are stored in a palinggih (cult building) of Ratu Bujangga here. And there are relics of Goa Garba to the east of the temple.

This cave is believed to be the hermitage of the Mahapatih Kebo Iwa from Bedahulu Kingdom when they wanted to add to the building, including making a wall-size of Pura Pengukur-ukuran. In addition to the Candi Agung, Goa Garba, and statues, there are also relics of the gate that connects the Candi Agung with Patirtaan (fountain). The Patirtaan is still to be used as a means to get the holy water and washing facilities as well as the rice to preparing a ceremony until now.

10. Pura Candi Gunung Kawi
Pura Candi Gunung Kawi is an ancient monument which is estimated to be built in the XI century.
To enter the temple complex, you have to pass an arch-shaped tunnel. The gate is made from an hollowed rock cliffs. Once you past the gate, then you’ll meet with two groups of temples are carved on the cliff. Rows of these temples are located in the west and east of the Pakerisan River. This building is the grave of King Anak Wungsu, ruler of Bali that was the sister of King Airlangga, whom was in power in East Java.
The far right of the temple on the tenth graves, by the archaeologist, regarded as the prime minister's grave, because there are bearing the word saying rakryan means minister. While the villager’s think of it as a home of priest who served the king in those days.

Note:
 Walk from parking area is about 1 km.
 Down stairs for about 144 stairs

11. Pura Mengening
What is interesting in these places is the presence of the Lingga-Yoni and ancient statues. Unfortunately these relics have been damaged, so it can not be known again when and who made them. In addition there are also remains of ancient buildings, among others, former doorway.

Mengening temple is located the North of the Pura Candi Gunung Kawi. Based on the findings of the doorway therefore the Asylum History and Antiquities of Bali is began to make observations in the field and was followed by a rescue excavation. This effort finally succeeded in finding the remains of an ancient building that allegedly form a prasada, which may originate from the time of the King Anak Wungsu.

 Walk from parking area is about 50 meters
 Down to 78 stairs – flat – up to 87 stairs to reach the temple

12. Tirta Empul
Empul Tirta means holy water that gushed from the ground. Indeed, in this temple there is a lot of water that out from very large springs. Prasasti Batu (Stone inscriptions) are still stored in the Manukkaya village which mention that Tirta Empul had been built by the Queen Sri Chandra Bhayasingha Warmadewa at Manukaya area. This inscription contains figures years of caka 882 (960 BC).

As another temples in Bali, this temple has three parts which are jaba pura (front part of the temple), jaba tengah (mid yard), dan jeroan (inside). There are two square pools at the Jaba Tengah (mid part), and there are 30 fountains which rowing from east to west facing to the south. Each fountain, based on tradition, has its own name. One of them is purifying fountain, purifying of soul, and poisoned fountain.

There is a mythological relation between the poisoned fountain and Tirta Empul, which was a war between Mayadenawa, the King of Batu Anyar (Bedulu) and God of Indra. In the mythology was said that the King Mayadenawa was arbitrary and do not allow people to perform religious ceremonies to invoke God's salvation in.

There are many people believe that the water from one of Pura Tirta Empul’s fountain could make them become healthy and young.

Note:
 Walk from parking area is about 200 meters

13, 14, 15. Pura Besakih, Pura Gunung Raung, and Pura Gunung Lebah
In chronicles of Bali it was said that in 109 AD Hyang Pasupati ordered three of his children to go to Bali to maintain balance and harmony of the island of Bali, namely: Betara Hyang Genijaya who lives in Mount Lempuyang, Hyang Betara Putranjaya, lived on Mount Agung and Betari Hyang Dewi Danuh in Ulun Danu Batur. By their arrival, the circumstances of Bali gradually improved.

This was followed again by the arrival of priest from Java, namely Hyang Tenuwuh live in the Mount Batukaru, Betara Manik Gumawang live in Ulun Danu Beratan, Betara Manik Galang in Pejeng, and Betara Hyang Tugu at Mount Andakasa.

Several centuries later Rsi Markandya imprisoned in Demalung area around Mount Dieng, East Java, and then be guided to meditate on the Mount Raung, East Java. There he was inspired to go to Bali. Accompanied by his followers (400 people) went to Bali directly to Mount Tohlangkir (Now Mount Agung), but, all of his followers dead to developing of the disease. He went back again to the Mount Raung, and imprisoned. In the monastery he received an instruction to return to the Mount Tohlangkir.

He was heading back to Bali to Tohlangkir with his 800 followers and buried pancadatu so that all of his followers could survived. Panca Datu is the five metals (gold, silver, bronze, copper, brass). Rsi Markandya then back to Tohlangkir. He buried the pancadatu in the village of Besukian (now Besakih). After performing this ritual, and built a temple in that place, he continued his westward to make a settlement.

In a jungle, at a glowing tree, he built a place for meditation called Pura Gunung Raung. He also opened settlement which is now called the village of Taro. He (rsi Markandeya) then spread his doctrine to the village.

From that point he then moved to the south part and built a meditation place, now named Pura Puncak Payogan. And, at a delta between Oos River and the Cerik River he built a meditation place again, named Pura Gunung Lebah. It said that the blend of those two rivers have a savor as a medicine. And therefore that area is now called as ubad (medicine in Balinesse language) which then change into the name of Ubud.

The name of Pura Gunung Lebah comes from the word of "mountain" and "lower". In the Balinese language, lebah means lower. The possibility of this name because the temple is situated at the top of a small hill located in a valley. The hill is the meeting point of two rivers namely Oos River and the Cerik River. This temple was built in the 8th century by the Rsi Markendya on his return from a trip to Mount Agung.

Note:
 Walk from parking area to the temple area of Besakih is about 300 meters
 106 stairs up to the main temple

 Walk from Tjampuhan Hotel to Pura Gunung Lebah is about 500meters

 Walk From parking area to the main entrance of Pura Gunung Raung is about 50meters


16. Ulun Danu Batur, Songan
By the Lake Batur

17. Ulun Danu Beratan
By The Lake Beratan

Note:
 Walk from parking area to the temple is about 150 meters


18. Tanah Lot

Pura Tanah Lot consists of two temples located on the large rock. One is located in the upper crust and the other located at the top of the cliff.

Pura Tanah Lot was built in the 16th century by a Brahmana from East Java named Danghyang Nirartha (his other name is Rsi Markandeya) succeed to strengthen the religion of the Balinese toward Hindu. At that time the ruler of Tanah Lot, Bendesa Beraben, jealous of him because of his followers turned to Danghyang Nirartha. Bendesa Beraben expelled Danghyang Nirartha to leave Tanah Lot.

This wise Brahmana agreed to leave. But before he left Tanah Lot, with his strength of meditation, he moved a boulder to the beach and built a temple on it. He transformed his sash become a snake that protect the temple. The snake still exists until now. Ending of this story said that the Bendesa Beraben become the follower of Danghyang Nirartha.

Note:
 Walk from parking area to the main gate of the temple is about 400 meters
 If the tide is low, we can go across to the main temple

19. Pura Uluwatu
This temple is one of six main temples in Bali. This temple stands majestically on the cliff 75 meters altitudes above sea level, at the southern tip of the island of Bali. Based on cosmological of Bali, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is located at the Southwest heading to Northeast. The gate is exactly head to head to the gate of Pura Penataran Agung Besakih.

There is no authentic evidence found it, when its temple to be built for the first time. But, if we see some archaeological remains in this place, the temple is believed to have gone there at the eighth century.
And, judging from its location on top of the surrounding of land area, a strong suspicion arisen that Uluwatu has functioned as a sacred area in Bali ancient times, pre-Hindu. In those days, the Balinese are very confident that the highest land, such as a mountain or hill is the holiest. It was there that ancestral spirits are believed to dwell. Therefore, the orientation of their worship was pointed there.

In some traditional Balinese sources, stated that around the 15th century Hindu priest from East Java named Danghyang Nirartha (also named Rsi Markandeya) had a spiritual journey along the banks of the beaches of southern Bali. In some places he went through, he built or fix some temples such as Pura Tanah Lot, Peti Tenget, Pura Sakenan, Pura Masceti, Pura Silayukti, and Pura Luhur Uluwatu. Not only the temple, along the way, Danghyang Nirarta establish "literary house", wrote and composed a literary works of spirituality.
For the Hindu community in Bali, Pura Luhur Uluwatu is a place to worship God in manifestation as Shiva-Rudra.

Note:
 Walk from parking area to the temple location is about 500 meters
 Beware of monkeys, they sometimes take our properties like glasses, hat, earring, etc

20. Pura Ulun Danu Batur
In the inscriptions and purana, it is mentioned that the Batara who lived in Pura Ulun Danu Batur is Dewi Danuh which is the source of the whole sources of life in Bali.
According to the conception rwa Bhineda (two things are always different), Pura Ulun Danu Batur is Pradana (feminine) and side by side with the Pura Besakih is as a purusha (masculine).

In the main yard of the temple is lined up some of Meru with various levels of the roof. The highest is 11 levels. There were also some sacred building of the great congregation, pepelik, gedong parucui, gedong Linggih Tribhuana, and pamuspaan Dalem Ketut Krishna Kepakisan (reigned in the year of 1350 to 1380).

21. Pura Gunung Kawi – Sebatu
Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu is located in the village of Pujung, Tegallalang. This temple is rich in water resources. Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu has an extensive and beautiful grounds, complete with neat gardens.
There has been no definitive studies can be used as educational material about the history of the origin of Pura Gunung Kawi Sebatu. However, it is said the temple is always associated with a time to decline of God Indra to beat the King Mayadenawa, the despotic ruler of Bali.

22. Pura Kentel Gumi
Pura Agung Kentel Gumi serves as a place of worship of God in manifestation as Sang Hyang Reka Bhuwana (the creator of the universe). However, based on the papyrus' Raja Purana Batur ", Pura Agung Kentel Gumi is one of the Tri Guna Temple or Kahyangan Tiga to Bali along with Pura Besakih and Pura Batur. in that constalation, the position Pura Kentel Gumi is as Pura Puseh of Bali. Here, the people begged for harmony of the universe.

Gumi Kentel name comes from the word "Kentel" which means solid, and the "gumi" which means the world, the earth or ground. It is said that this temple was built by putting of the Mpu Kuturan’s pole, as nail or pegs, makes a point to the axis of the universe.

Symbolically, by the MPU Kuturan, the temple is intended to radiate fibration of peace and the establishment after the spiritual life of Bali were devastated due to the power of King Mayadenawa who ruled in 962 AD-975 AD

Pura Agung Kentel Gumi consists of three groups: (1) Pura Agung Kentel Gumi, in which there are about 19 sacred buildings (palinggih), (2) Pura Maspahit with five, (3) Pura Masceti which has seven palinggih.

Those three groups are derived by surrounded wall from one to another.

In this temple, is the highest Meru is the 11levels meru which is place for Batara Sakti. Meru with 9 levels as the place for Batara Mahadeva, meru with 7 levels is the place for Batara Segara, meru with 5 levels is the place for Batara in Batur, and the meru with 3 levels is the place for Batara Ulun Danu.

Until now, there is no definitive data regarding when the Pura Agung Kentel Gumi began construction, but citing twist "Babad Bendesa Mas", the temple was built by the Mpu Kuturan. Even then, it is said, after a refurbishment. For some palinggih had been there already before the Mpu Kuturan come. While the king who ruled at that time (during Mpu Kuturan built the temple) was King Sri Krishna Kepakisan who ruled Bali in 1350 AD.

Places for Barong Dance and Fire Kecak:
1. Banjar Batur, Batubulan, Gianyar – price to enter and filming in normal USD 275.00
2. Sahadewa, Batubulan, Gianyar – price to enter and filming in normal USD 250.00
3. Uluwatu Temple - price to enter and filming in normal USD 350.00

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